6.25.2005


i tried real hard, god did i ever want to get up. sadly, i just got thrown around like a tossed salad. it was a very windy day and the waves were rather unforgiving for a little beginner such as myself, even though i had huge 9' board beneath me, what they call a malibu board. i did ride a couple in, on my stomach though, and that was super fun. after a while i would tell my arms to lift me up and they just wouldn't respond. surfing, or trying to surf, is goddamn tiring stuff. i can't wait to go back.
Copyright Alexi Hobbs 2005

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Let it come, don't push it, when you're tired take a rest.....
ask Gab...

Anonymous said...

It must be exhilarating as well as bloody hard work, but HEY! keep at it man